DIY | How to Sew a Travel Makeup Brush Roll

How to Sew a DIY Makeup Brush Roll | Revamperate How to Sew a DIY Makeup Brush Roll | RevamperateI think (hope) I’m getting a lot better at this sewing thing. I’ve been finding opportunities to practice and now that we have a lot more space in our spare room for sewing, I hope it will be easier for me to stay on top of my projects. 

For Christmas a couple years ago, my aunt gifted me a great MAC makeup brush set that came in a cute zipper pouch. I’ve used and abused it over the last couple years, and even though several of my brushes have lasted incredibly well, it was time for the zipper pouch to retire. So I decided to put all my sewing practice to good use and share how to sew a makeup brush roll, so it easily rolls up and ties together to fit inside of your bag when your travel or just to sit in your drawer. 

This tutorial doesn’t require very much fabric or very high sewing skills. It was fun to create something that I actually found useful, and it’s fun to customize the fabric. Because it’s for brushes and brushes do get dirty, you will need a fabric that is machine washable and durable. You may also want to consider a fabric that is a little darker that will not show as much of the makeup residue. I promise you can make this in about 30 minutes, and you’ll be surprised how easily it all comes together. I chose two different fabrics – one patterned, one solid. My pattern is very busy, so I thought it would be a lot easier to see the various pieces if I balanced it out with a solid black fabric. I also made the strap out of the solid black fabric, but you could even use a thick ribbon and just follow the same steps for securing it to the fabric.

How to Sew a DIY Makeup Brush Roll | Revamperate How to Sew a DIY Makeup Brush Roll | RevamperateTime: 30 minutes


  • 1/2 yard patterned cotton fabric
  • 1/2 yard solid cotton fabric
  • Coordinating thread 
  • Fabric marker or chalk
  • Scissors and/or rotary cutter

Fold the patterned fabric in half. Cut a 9″ x 13″ piece to become the “ammo belt.” Then fold the solid fabric in half and cut one 10″ x 14″ piece to become the brush pockets (10″ x 14″ when unfolded). Make sure the 10″ side is along the fold. Cut the strap by cutting one 4″ x 10″ piece along the fold, resulting in one extra long piece. Iron all pieces flat. 

Here’s what you should have now:

  • Two 9″ x 13″ pieces (ammo belt, patterned)
  • One 9″ x 13″ piece (brush pocket, solid color)
  • One 4″ x 20″ piece (belt strap, solid color)

Take the 9″ x 12″ sold brush pocket piece and fold in half along the longer side with the wrong sides together. This folded edge will be the top of the brush pocket. Align the sides and bottom with the edge of the 9″ x 14″ piece and pin into place. With a fabric marker or chalk, make a mark every inch across the brush pockets to indicate where to sew each pocket. 

How to Sew a DIY Makeup Brush Roll | Revamperate Because brushes come in different sizes, adjust based on the size of your brushes. I have some brushes that are larger than the others, so when I got several inches to the end, I increased the pocket size to 2 inches. 

Starting at the bottom of the brush pocket sew up the edge and backstich at the top of the pocket. Repeat at each marked spot all the way across the brush pocket. Trim extra strings and set aside.

How to Sew a DIY Makeup Brush Roll | RevamperateTo make the strap, take the 4″ x 10″ piece and fold the long side one inch inward, wrong sides together. Repeat with the other side so that both long edges are folded to meet in the middle. Iron the creases. Then fold together along the long side one more time, edges together and iron down. Starting at the end of the strap, sew a very thin seam around the edge, backstitching at each end. 

Take the second 9″ x 14″ piece (back of ammo belt) and lay right-side up. Position the middle of the completed belt strap in the middle of the fabric and pin in place. Sew the strap in place across the fabric about 3 inches from each edge. This is to allow for seams so that the belt does not get stuck both sides of the ammo belt are sewn together and to allow the ties to work even the brush pack is rolled tightly.

How to Sew a DIY Makeup Brush Roll | Revamperate How to Sew a DIY Makeup Brush Roll | RevamperatePlace both pieces of the ammo belt right-sides together and pin around the edges, making sure the loose straps are tucked safely inside. Sew a thin seam around the edge of the fabric, leaving a 3-inch hole on the side and backstitching at each end. Turn the fabric right-side out through the opening and stitch up the opening with a very thin seam or with an invisible stitch. Iron the entire pieces again if you desire (I recommend this to press the seams).

How to Sew a DIY Makeup Brush Roll | Revamperate How to Sew a DIY Makeup Brush Roll | Revamperate Now you have a completed makeup brush roll! Best of all, it’s completely washable, so when it gets covered in makeup (which it inevitably will) just pop it in the wash with a good detergent. For best results, I do not recommend drying, unless you choose to pre shrink your fabric. I don’t trust the dryer with my homemade items, but that’s just me. Happy sewing!


DIY How to Sew a Lumbar Pillow from a Placemat (or Anything Else!)

DIY Placemat Lumbar Pillow | RevamperatePillows are my favorite. Every time I go shopping somewhere, I find myself gravitating toward pillows and wishing that I had ten couches and three beds in my house to fill with pillows. BUT since I don’t, I end up being so critical and picky that I don’t buy the beautiful pillows that I lust after and only have a couple on my couch. Plus, it’s kind of crazy how expensive pillows are…or maybe I’m just that cheap? Luckily, it’s Christmastime now, so I can make pillows that are just for Christmas! It’s a perfect excuse to have MORE PILLOWS and then store them away for the rest of the year. 

So today I’m sharing how to make a lumbar pillow from a placemat (or pretty much anything else). The great thing about a pillow is you can recycle any fabric to make it, so grab a placemat, scarf, table runner, table cloth, old t-shirt, etc. and get to sewing! This is a super easy sewing project for anyone, and I like making pillows this way because you can stuff the pillows yourself and make them as full as you want. I find that pillow forms are just never as lusciously full as I would like them to be, and the cost of a giant bag of fiberfill is still cheaper than one pillow form. 

DIY Placemat Lumbar Pillow | RevamperateTime: 30 minutes 


  • One standard sized placemat (can also use a scarf, table runner, etc.)
  • 1/2 yard matching fabric (for backside)
  • Fiberfill pillow stuffing
  • Matching thread
  • Scissors
  • Cutting board (if you have one)
  • Needle 

I laid my eyes on this cute, simple placemat with “Merry & Bright” embroidered on it at Target and instantly knew that I could use it for something and it was only, like, $3 and I just had to have it. So that’s how I decided to turn a placemat into a Christmas pillow…because I don’t actually use placemats as placemats but I love pillows.

You can follow this tutorial to make a lumbar pillow out of pretty much anything (a scarf, table runner, recycled fabric, etc.). Your pillow can vary sizes, but I based mine on the length of the placemat, so I ended up with a pillow about 12 in x 4 in when I allowed room for seams. Plus, because I have an embroidered pattern, I wanted to make sure that portion showed up in the middle of the pillow. Whatever size you choose, just be sure to add at least 1/2 inch to your desired size to allow for seams, but know that I’m writing as if we’re all making a 12 in x 4 in pillow.

Because this placemat was double sided, I didn’t actually end up using a different fabric for the backside, but I added it in the supplies list because I had fully intended on using it at first, and it’s likely that you’ll need more fabric for the back of the pillow.

First, cut the placemat to be about 12.5 in x 4.5 in, taking into account the direction you want the pattern (or in this case, embroidery) to be in, making sure that pattern is centered. Because a placemat has a fairly thick seam around the edge, I cut that off first before cutting the rest of my measurements. 

Then cut the same size from your matching fabric for the backing. You can either use a color that stands out against your front side or that blends well with it – whatever you want! Place the two right sides (or patterned sides) together, line up the edges and pin all the way around. 

DIY Placemat Lumbar Pillow | Revamperate
Beginning at a corner along one of the long sides of the fabric, back stitch and then sew all the way around the pillow with at least a 1/4-inch seam, leaving a 3-inch hole before you reach the end of the pillow and back stitching again. Trim the threads and cut your corners. Then turn the pillowcase right side out and iron down the seams (not entirely necessary but recommended). 

Grab your pillow stuffing and push it into the corners from the opening left in the side of the pillowcase (I use a little chopstick-looking tool). Fill the pillow until you reach your desired fluffiness. 

Lastly, use a ladder stitch to close the opening with an invisible seam. Then you’re left with a cute lumbar pillow and even though you’ll know that it’s made from a placemat, no one else will ever guess it. It looks great on my chair for the season. Definitely a worthwhile Target purchase!

DIY Easy Leather Zipper Pouch

DIY Leather Zipper Pouch | RevamperateDIY Leather Zipper Pouch | Revamperate
First and foremost, I’d like to thank my mom for helping me sew today’s project. Sewing is not my strongest skill, and I’m still learning the basics. For me, planning out the proper steps to take is the most difficult part and I tend to make a lot of mistakes. I can’t even tell you how many projects I’ve had to scrap because I messed something up too many times, so I should thank my mom for not letting me scrap this one when I accidentally sewed two pieces together the wrong way. Sewing takes a lot of practice. You can’t just sit down and do it right the first time (or if you can, teach me!) and that’s totally fine. 

DIY Leather Zipper Pouch | Revamperate
Today’s sewing tutorial for this cute color blocked leather zipper pouch took me much longer than I anticipated because I messed up at least twice and my mom had to tear my seams out. What else did I do wrong? My seam around my zipper came apart several times because I sewed too close to the edge. I also melted a portion of the “leather” when I tried to iron a seam down because, as it turns out, plastic leather melts. Oops. My point is you can’t get it right every time, and when you’re testing out something new you’ll probably make mistakes. It doesn’t mean you should give up. Start small and tear out a few seams and start over. You’ll get it! 

DIY Leather Zipper Pouch | Revamperate
Time: 30 minutes 


  • Half yard of faux leather
  • Half yard of complimenting heavy fabric
  • 7-inch “fashion” zipper (I used gold and black to match but stand out)
  • Complimenting thread 
  • Pins
  • Rotary cutter or scissors 

DIY Leather Zipper Pouch | Revamperate
First, cut your fabric. You need two pieces of patterned fabric 8 in x 4 and one piece of leather 8 in x 6 in to make the outside. For the lining, cut one piece of patterned fabric about 8 in x 12 in (not pictured). 

DIY Leather Zipper Pouch | Revamperate
Pin the right side of your patterned fabric to the zipper (long side) so that when your zipper is facing up, your fabric is pinned to the opposite side. Check before you sew! Once it’s pinned, if you were to sew a seam along the zipper to secure the fabric and you fold over the fabric to hide the seam, it should show the patterned side of the fabric and hide the seam. Pin the other piece of patterned fabric to the opposite side of the zipper. Then sew as close to the zipper as you can and iron your seams. When you unfold it, it should look like this: 

DIY Leather Zipper Pouch | RevamperateDIY Leather Zipper Pouch | Revamperate
You should have one long piece with the zipper in the middle. Leave face up and place the leather on top, right sides facing together and line up one end of the fabrics and pin. Then pin the other end to end of the fabric. Note, once pinned, it won’t lay flat. Sew each seam. Now you should have a hammock-looking piece with a zipper in the middle. 

Trim excess strings and open the zipper at least halfway. While still inside out, sew down each side to close them off, sewing as close to the zipper as you can. Trim strings and turn the pouch right-side out through the open zipper. Set aside.

DIY Leather Zipper Pouch | Revamperate
To make the lining, lay out the fabric, right side facing down. On each shorter end, fold over a 1/2 inch seam and iron flat. Fold in half, right sides facing together and sew each side, stopping before you reach your ironed seam. Trim threads and stick the lining inside of the pouch. When inserted, you’ll see the right side of the fabric. Pin the top seams to the zipper on each side and sew down as close to the zipper as you can.

DIY Leather Zipper Pouch | Revamperate DIY Leather Zipper Pouch | RevamperateDIY Leather Zipper Pouch | Revamperate
Lastly, use a needle and thread to hand sew any areas you could not reach with your sewing machine. For example, I hand sewed the corners of my lining to the zipper because my my sewing machine could not reach the corners with the zipper in the way. 

Ta-da! You should have a fully functional leather zipper pouch now that is both fashionable and versatile. Use for your makeup or for carrying around when you go out. Happy crafting! 


5 Minute DIY Quick Sew Sunglasses Case

DIY Quick Sew Sunglasses Case | Revamperate DIY Quick Sew Sunglasses Case | Revamperate
Can you believe it’s already September? Time is flying by lately, and I’m not ready for summer to end. When summer ends, I feel like I don’t see daylight again until March when Daylight Savings rolls around again. Seriously, I get up and leave the house when it’s still dark and leave work when it’s already dark…I’m not ready for that yet, so I’m soaking up as much sunlight as I possibly can while it lasts! 

In this edition of 5-minute DIY, I’m going to show you how to make this super simple low-sew sunglasses case with only a couple of supplies and little-to-no sewing skills required. If I can make it, you can make it. It’s great for beginners who are still getting used to sewing because it’s all straight lines and simple cuts, which is why you can make it in only 5 minutes.

DIY Quick Sew Sunglasses Case | Revamperate
Time: 5 minutes 


  • Fabric
  • Matching ribbon 
  • Scissors 
  • Matching thread
  • Sewing machine

Cut a piece of fabric about 7 inches wide and 8 long, and cut a piece of ribbon about 14 inches long. The measurements don’t need to be exact, so you can adjust them as needed, but I found that these measurements worked best for my average pair of sunglasses. 

DIY Quick Sew Sunglasses Case | Revamperate
Line up the ribbon along the 7-inch wrong side of the fabric, and fold over the fabric to conceal the ribbon (about 1 inch). Iron the seam down if you can. Sew along the edge of fabric to secure the fold without sewing down the ribbon. 

Then fold the fabric in half with the ribbon at the top, right sides facing together. Starting at the top corner where the drawstring seam begins, sew a 1/4 inch seam down the side and continue to sew around the corner until you reach the opposite corner, making sure to backstitch at the ends. 

DIY Quick Sew Sunglasses Case | Revamperate DIY Quick Sew Sunglasses Case | Revamperate DIY Quick Sew Sunglasses Case | Revamperate
Then turn that fabric right side out, iron again and add your sunglasses! It’s quick, easy and cute. These sunglasses cases make great gifts and they’re so easy to customize with different fabrics and ribbons. Happy crafting! 

DIY Copper Pipe Magazine Rack

DIY Copper Pipe Magazine Rack | Revamperate DIY Copper Pipe Magazine Rack | Revamperate
Guys, I have a copper problem. I want copper everything, and I might be going a little overboard (me? never!). But copper is my new obsession, and bringing it in again with this DIY copper pipe magazine rack. I’ve wanted to make a magazine rack for a while – I know most people probably don’t really read magazines any more, but I still have subscriptions to a couple I really like. For several months, I’ve been figuring out the best way to make one. I seriously thought about trying to turn a paper organizer into one but it didn’t quite work out. Then I stumbled across a copper pipe magazine rack in an online store and was like, I can totally make that. So you know what? I did!

From start to finish, it’s a pretty easy project, but cutting the pipe will take some time. We used a hacksaw, which worked fine, but it’s tough work sawing through metal (as I’m sure you can imagine). Big shout out to Andrew for cutting the pipe for me. I got the easy job – assembly and sewing.

DIY Copper Pipe Magazine Rack | Revamperate
Time: 1 hour + 30 minutes


  • 10 ft. 1/2 inch copper pipe
  • 8 elbow-shaped copper pipe connectors
  • Hacksaw (or similar tool appropriate for cutting pipe)
  • Protective eye wear
  • Black marker
  • Measuring tape
  • E6000 glue
  • 1/2 yard fabric
  • Scissors/rotary cutting tool
  • Matching thread
  • Barkeepers Friend (or similar cleaning product, optional)

1. Cut the Pipes 

First thing’s first, you need to measure and cut your copper pipe. With your measuring tape, mark the long 10-ft long piece of copper with your marker to cut four 10-inch pieces and four 12-inch pieces. Place the pipe on top of two items of equal height with space in the middle where you will actually cut the pipe. For example, we used two bar stools. If you are doing this inside, I recommend laying down newspaper to catch the copper shavings and reduce the mess.

With your hacksaw, begin cutting at the marked lines. We found that the best way is to saw backwards several times (pull the saw towards you) to maintain the best grip on the pipe. After doing this a few times, you will create a rivet in the pipe that will make it easier for you to begin cutting in a back and forth motion to cut all the way through. Continue until all pieces are cut. It’s totally OK if the ends aren’t cleanly cut – you won’t be able to see them anyway.

This is optional, but we chose to wash the newly cut pipe and the connectors to shine them up a bit. We filled the sink with warm water and Barkeepers Friend cleaning solution and let the pipes sit in it for about 20 minutes. When we pulled them out, they were much brighter. Dry and begin assembling the magazine rack’s skeleton. 

2. Assemble the Pipe Rack (Do Not Glue)

To assemble the magazine rack, connect the pipes with the connectors (do not use glue yet) to make two incomplete squares – they should not have a bottom. I suggest assembling it so that the squares are 12 inches tall and 10 inches wide. Use the two remaining 10-inch pieces to connect the bottoms of the two squares, creating a magazine rack shaped like the first photo.

DIY Copper Pipe Magazine Rack | Revamperate
3. Sew the Hammock 

Cut one piece of fabric 32 in x 20 in. Fold in half on the long side, right sides of the fabric facing together. Sew a 1/4 inch seam across the open long side and around one corner across one short side.

After that, you should only have one short side open. Turn the fabric right side out and iron flat. On the open side, fold the edges in to fake a seam, iron down and sew across the open side, continuing a thin top stitch all the way around the piece of fabric. Now you should have a double-sided piece of fabric with all edges sewn  and pretty. 

Then measure the handles for your hammock. Loosely wrap the short side of the hammock around your 10-inch pipe, leaving room for it to hang and sew a seam. Pin where you would like the folded handle to be. Your seam will be on the inside of the hammock (see photo below). Repeat this on the opposite short side of the fabric. It’s better to over measure in this case because if your hammock ends up being too long, it will drag on the ground, which you don’t want, so it’s actually better for the hammock to be too short than too long. Because your pipes will already be put together, it should be easy to tell how the hammock will hang once all sewn together.

When satisfied, remove the pipes to pull off the fabric (this is why you shouldn’t glue anything yet). You don’t need to do anything special here because the ends of your fabric are already finished, so just sew straight across where you pinned, sewing over your existing seam to secure it and back stitching at each end because this will carry all of the weight for your magazines.  

DIY Copper Pipe Magazine Rack | Revamperate
4. Assemble and Glue the Rack

Before gluing anything together, remove the two top pipes of the rack (10 inches) and slide on the hammock on each side. Replace the pipes.

When you’re satisfied with the assembly, you’ll see it’s pretty wobbly. Remove one connector at a time to glue them all to the pipes. One line of glue around the end of pipe should stick well once you allow it some time to dry. When you’ve glued all connectors in place and it’s had time to dry, you should notice that it’s much sturdier.

Then fill with magazines and display in your home! You can hold several magazines at a time. I would not recommend letting it get too heavy or you risk some bending or stretching.This is a much better solution to my magazine storage than having them stacked underneath my coffee table. Plus it feeds my copper obsession! Happy crafting!

DIY Wrap Headband

DIY Rosie Wrap Headband | Revamperate DIY Rosie Wrap Headband | Revamperate
Remember Rosie the Riveter from the 40s? Her headband style has become pretty popular recently as it was back in the day, especially with “rockabilly” style in the 50s. Now, these wrap headbands are quite popular with tons of different styles and patterns. I’ve always avoided headbands like these because I didn’t think I could pull them off, but it seemed like a fun and easy sewing project to try. Plus, my new and smoother hair can do a lot more than my natural frizzy hair could, so I embarked on a sewing project.

This should really only take you up to an hour, but my luck took a bit of a turn during this project when I could not longer thread my sewing machine (sigh). I spent a lot of time on the phone with my mom going “Why won’t it work?!” as if she had all the answers. Moms know everything, after all. It took a lot of fussing, but I got it back up and running and finishing the headband was a breeze. 

DIY Rosie Wrap Headband | Revamperate
Now, let’s talk fabric choices before we jump in. You can make a wrap headband with most types of fabric. If you use something thinner like a standard cotton fabric, you’ll want to use a fusible interfacing to give it stiffness. Otherwise, go ahead and continue without it. You can also make one of these Rosie the Riveter style headbands with one pattern or with two or with one solid side and other patterned side. You can also experiment with using a bright or contrasting thread color for your top stitch. Mix it up and make them in a bunch of patterns and colors!

DIY Rosie Wrap Headband | Revamperate
Time: 1 hour


  • 1/2 yard of fabric (can use two different fabrics if you want – one for each side)
  • Matching thread
  • Fusible interfacing (not required for heavier fabrics)
  • Iron
  • Sewing machine 
  • Scissors
  • Cutting board and rotary cutter (recommended)

First, decide how long you want the headband to be. With 1/4-inch seam allowances, I recommend cutting 39-inch long, 3-inch wide strips for an adult. Of course, you’d want to adjust the sizes for a child. 

I recommend using a rotary cutter for this because it makes it really easy to cut long, straight strips, but you can do the same with scissors. Cut two strips of fabric that are 39-inches long and 3-inches wide. You can adjust these if you want to use larger seam allowances or have a thinner band. Just remember you don’t want it to be too thin or it may be difficult to turn right side out. 

DIY Rosie Wrap Headband | Revamperate
Then cut the same size of your interface and iron the interface to the wrong side of your fabric strips. 

Fold each piece in half. Starting with one piece, cut a tapered point into the end of the fabric. Once you’re satisfied with the shape, place the cut piece of top of the other uncut piece, and copy the shape. Make sure all sides have the same shape – this will ensure that everything lines up and stays symmetrical. 

DIY Rosie Wrap Headband | Revamperate
Pin the two right sides of the fabric together, leaving the interface facing out. In the middle of the band, place two pins perpendicular to the others to mark the opening where you will not sew. Leave about 1-2 inches of space here to turn your fabric right side out after the rest has been sewed together. Once pinned, start at the opening and sew a 1/4-inch seam all the way around, followed the tapered ends and stop when you reach the other pin marking your opening. 

While it’s inside out, cut off the points of your fabric at the tapered ends. This will keep the point from appearing bulky once finished. 

DIY Rosie Wrap Headband | RevamperateDIY Rosie Wrap Headband | Revamperate DIY Rosie Wrap Headband | Revamperate
Turn the headband right side out through the opening using something similar to a chopstick. Then iron well and tuck the unstitched portion of the band inside, ironing it down so that you can stitch over it afterward. Top stitch all the way around the headband as close to the seam as you can get and you’re done! Wrap the band around your head and tie the top for a cute accessory that you can customize in so many different ways. Happy crafting! 




DIY Ruffled Tulle Apron

DIY Ruffled Tulle Apron | Revamperate DIY Ruffled Tulle Apron | Revamperate
I’m definitely not the seamstress in our family, so my sewing projects tend to go awry. I’ve had to scrap a lot of sewing projects in my day (ha, get it? Scrap). Anyway, thanks to my awesome mom, this sewing tutorial is possible. She’s been helping me conquer my sewing fears and learn new tricks, and I literally could not sew without her. I call her pretty consistently with issues about my machine or my fabric or how to piece something together. She’s the master.

You can make this really cute ruffled tulle apron using only about a yard of fabric, keeping the overall cost really low. Yes, it’s really girly but really cute too, so mix fabrics or colors to create your own special look with tulle.

You need:

  • 1 yard of fabric
  • 1/2 yard complementary colored tulle
  • Scissors
  • Bowl
  • Cardboard
  • Sewing machine

First, cut two 5 inch wide pieces of fabric the length of the fabric piece. This will be the top band, so you want it to be long enough to tie around you. Match up the ends and sew them together to make one very long piece. Iron the seam open, fold the long side in half (bad sides in) and iron again.

Measure the fabric according to your body by cutting a piece that can wrap all the way around you and goes down to about your knees. You need the extra width to account for the pleats, and account for about 2 inches of seams. Mine measured about 37 inches wide and 19 inches tall.

DIY Ruffled Tulle Apron | Revamperate DIY Ruffled Tulle Apron | Revamperate
Fold the fabric in half and use a bowl to trace the curve you want in bottom of the apron. You only need to do it on one corner (open side) because it’s folded, ensuring that your apron appears symmetrical. Unfold and iron half-inch seams all the way around. Then fold them over again – this keeps the edges from fraying in the wash.

Cut the tulle into 6-inch wide pieces and sew multiple pieces together using a really small zigzag stitch on the edge of the tulle, keeping them secure because tulle is such an open fabric. Using the largest regular stitch you have, sew down the middle of the now long piece of tulle, letting it gather tightly. Fold in half at the stitch, and pin the bunched up tulle around the sides and bottom of the apron and sew together with a regular stitch, trying your best to keep the gathering consistent.

DIY Ruffled Tulle Apron | Revamperate DIY Ruffled Tulle Apron | Revamperate
Cut a two-inch piece of cardboard to use as a template to make your pleats. Starting at the middle of the apron, fold the fabric over the cardboard and pin it. Continue folding every two inches across the apron and sew all the way across the pleats carefully.

Match the middle of the top band to the middle of the apron and pin about one inch down to cover the raw edges of the apron. Pin and sew only the part that is attached to the bottom apron. Iron the remaining bottom edge on each side to meet the same edge at the apron, about one inch all the way across. Repeat ironing the one-inch seam on the top of the band and fold it in half. Match up the top and bottom and pin all the way across, folding the ends in to make clean ends of the band. Sew all the way across the top, around each edge and across the bottom, stopping only where it meats the front apron. Trim any remaining strings and ta-da!

DIY Ruffled Tulle Apron | RevamperateDIY Ruffled Tulle Apron | Revamperate
It may seem like a lot of steps but it’s easier than you think and the tulle apron turns out really cute. Trust me – if I can make it, so can you. Even if you don’t have a lot of sewing practice, just give it a shot. Enjoy, and thanks for all the help, Mom!

DIY Travel Laundry Bag

DSC_0231DSC_0217 I’m traveling this week, making stops in Omaha and Chicago for work. Knowing that I’d  be living out of a suitcase for a few days, I thought I’d take a shot at creating a travel bag for my lingerie. Ladies (and gentlemen), you know how it is. When traveling, you have to consciously sort the underwear you’ve worn and haven’t worn on separate sides of your suitcase or in plastic bags to make sure you can keep track. Same goes for socks.

Instead, here’s a solution to, what I shall dub, the “panty problem.” You can create this little zipper pouch with separate compartments for your worn and unworn items. Of course, you could make this on a larger scale for more clothing, but I think the small size is part of its appeal.

DSC_0204You’ll need:

  • Light canvas fabric (approx. one yard)
  • 2 zippers, 7 inches each
  • Matching thread
  • Pins
  • Fabric paint (2 colors)
  • Small paintbrush
  • Pencil
  • Iron
  • Seam ripper (if you have one)

First, you may need some basic sewing knowledge for this project, something that I have little of. I enlisted my mom’s help for the sewing portion. She’s the expert. Cut two pieces of your canvas, about 8 inches by 16 inches.


Run a very wide stitch on the long side of your fabric, leaving about a half inch seam. Then iron the seam open and pin your two zippers side-by-side, zipper sides facing down into your fabric and zipper heads facing inward towards each other. You will use a small stitch to sew them into place, going around the ends in a square, pulling the pins out at you go. I know it seems weird – sewing your zipper down into stitched fabric, but once the zippers are sewn, use a seam ripper or small scissors to cut and remove the original, wide stitch. This will give your zipper the proper look. At this point, open both zippers.

DSC_0211 DSC_0215

Then, stitch down the sides and bottom, going around the corners in a square. Once done, pull the bag right-side-out through one of the open zippers. Your seams should now be hidden inside of the bag. Run one more stitch down the middle of the bag, between the two zippers, and then iron out any leftover wrinkles. Not too bad, right?

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The sewing portion of your bag is now complete! Use your pencil to draw what you would like to have on your bag, such as “wash” and “wear” with small pictures like I did. Carefully trace over or fill in with a small paintbrush and let dry, and then you have a travel laundry bag to take with you wherever you go.

I’ve only been traveling for a day, but I love it already! As I’m sitting here in my Omaha hotel, I’m thankful I made it when I did. Plus, it’s washable (assuming you’ve used fabric-safe paint), so you can clean it with your laundry when you get home.

Happy crafting!

DIY Crate Cat Bed

IMG_4854IMG_4723Can we all agree that pet projects are the best projects? As soon as we knew we’d be adopting Oliver, I immediately knew he needed a bed (even though he’d probably prefer a cardboard box). I also took this as a great opportunity to try my hand at sewing with my new sewing machine!

My grandma passed her old sewing machine on to me a while back, but until recently I never had room for it. Now that I have an actual office space, I have room to sew – something I haven’t done since I was a kid. That’s how you know this is an easy project. Sewing the pillow for Oliver’s bed was the first time I’ve used a sewing machine since I was probably ten years old, so I promise anyone can do this.

I painted a crate, adding his name and sewed an envelop pillow case to add the pillow inside of his bed. Overall, this project can take as little as an hour.

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To make this crate cat bed (or small dog bed), you’ll need:

  • A crate (mine is x x x from Michael’s)
  • At least two different colors of paint
  • Small chipboard letters
  • Clear acrylic spray paint
  • Fabric
  • Pillow insert (mine is 16 x 20 in from IKEA)

Other supplies:

  • A sewing machine
  • Thread that matches your fabric
  • Fabric measuring tape
  • Scissors
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Paint brushes
  • Pencil

First, stand your crate right side up, with handles on each side. Using your hands, a crowbar or a hammer, pry off the top two slats of the crate. This lowers the front of the crate so your pet can step inside easier.

Then paint the entire crate one color – I chose grey for a mellow but still “manly” look that will blend in well with the apartment. A second coat made a huge difference because the first coat left it a bit streaky.



Once dry, lay down chipboard letters on the front, top slate of the crate, spelling out your pet’s name. You could glue down chipboard letters instead of painting them, but I preferred the look of paint and decided to forgo the glittery letters because I was concerned they’d fall off too quickly and wouldn’t suit the boyish look I was going for. Use a pencil to trace the letters, and fill them in with your second paint color – I chose light blue. Then take it outside to spray it with a light coat of clear acrylic spray paint to give it a nice, finished shine.

Then go into that pile of scrap fabric we all have and dig out a large pieces of fabric to match your bed – I chose light yellow. For my 16 x 20 inch pillow insert, which I pulled out of one of my old IKEA pillows, I cut one piece that was 17 x 21 inches, leaving an extra inch around for the seam. Then, cut two more pieces that will create the envelope. Mine were 17 x 11 inches and 17 x 13 inches, allowing for a few inches of overlap. If using a different size pillow, make sure to allow for at least 2-4 inches of overlap, and one of your pieces will be smaller than the other.

Then iron them out as best you can. Take the edges of your envelop pieces that will be the envelop and fold over about 1/4 inch, then fold another 1/4 of an inch. Iron in place to hold the fold together.


Place the full piece on the bottom, outside facing up. Place your smallest piece, outside facing down, on top of the larger pieces. Then place your medium-sized piece, outside facing down, on top of the other.

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First, sew across the folded area of your envelop pieces, reversing along the ends to hold your stitch. Lay them back down and pin around your pieces to hold them in place. Sew a 1/2 inch seam around the length of the pillow, reversing your seam at each end to hold. As you go around, turn your fabric, so you have a consistent seam going all the way around, pulling the pins out as your go. Once done, cut the corners off and trim your extra strings.

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Then pull the pillow outisde-out and iron down the edges. Put your pillow insert inside and ta-da! Then squeeze it inside the crate. It should be a somewhat tight fit.

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Now you have a comfy little bed for your little sidekick!